The farmer has a ramp here for his ski boat, but my SW24 wouldn't fit between two trees. I winched it up to here at night, ready for the sharp turn around a tree with the tractor hitched up.

Rear view of location in first photo. The boat sitting on a specially made trailer.

The trailer had to be built a little higher to clear the bank uphill of the track.

The disassembly point.

This "trailer special" built from a neighbour's junk steel carried the hulls from the river bank about a kilometre to the work site.

the old rear tramp track coming off.

Blocks glassed on to carry the hard deck. A strip of 40mm deep timber (same as the other longitudinal stiffeners) will be glued under the side edges to raise the deck to its previous height.

Osmosis. The blister can usually be seen when the boat has been out of the water for a while (or frequently beached). This is the appearance after most of the antifoul has been scraped off and the blister punctured.

The photo shows how much the closer hole has been filed to get the pin parallel to the beam. The worn area behind is from the mast base sliding "downhill" on the tilted pin.

The port hull is slung inside the shed, the starboard hull remains on its trailer. When changing hulls in the covered area, the port hull will be moved onto the boat trailer.

The hull is slung in two rope slings passing through pulleys. This enables it to be rotated by a single person.

A half pine log bolted to the front beam mount enables the rotation to be controlled. When upside down, the hull will rest on the the propped up log, with the bolts removed to allow work on the beam mount.

Showing the wet patch under the gunwale where water ran out from the underfloor compartment, and the cracks along the underside of the hull/deck joint.

The windows installed by the previous owner were too big and the corners too sharp. The openings have been chamfered in preparation for filling. Glass mat cut to fit the opening was wetted onto the waxed perspex windows and screwed into place prior to glassing inside and out. The plan is to fit one or two much smaller windows on each hull after glassing a recess. Only sealant will be used.

With the hull rotated two layers of glass the size and shape of the old windows were laid on the inside. Prior to this I laced the old screw holes with glass strand from some unidirectional mat. I'm not sure this is a good idea as it wasn't possible to pull it tight, leaving mounds at the holes.

The hull position for glassing the inside of the windows. While in this position I scraped and sanded the starboard side of the hull. When rotating into this position, water from the underfloor compartment ran behind the daggerboard case and, WAIT FOR IT, exited the hull via the hull join at the gunwale! Not only is there a leak at the lower end of this section, there is also a problem where the hulls were joined. Obviously, sealing behind the daggerboard cases was difficult.

Front beam top after strut was removed. There is a lot of corrosion caused by poor fitting of stainless to alloy. The area has now been sleeved and will be fitted with a compression tube. The black material is semi-cylindrical pieces of plastic pipe that will be refitted to protect the beam, and my sensitivities, from the dragging of ground tackle across the beam.

This section of the front beam shows corrosion and impact wear under the starboard inside main bolt head - yep, no washer! Also visible are the corroded holes to which the tang for the over-beam wire was through bolted, again with no protection.

Topview of the coaming around the recently cutout front hatch. It is smaller than most seen on SW24s, hopefully will seal better, and provide ventilation and a bit of light.

When the hull is inverted the hatch opening will receive further attention, including stiffeners running across the hull.

Work has begun here to straighten the flanges onto which the washboard might seal. The area behind will be deepened to stiffen the companionway and provide a comfortable rounded edge for human passage.